by J. M. Chico Fernández
photos by Chico Fernández
THE LIGHT WAS PERFECT as I aimed my telephoto lens at a
skiff working across the flats. The bow angler made some beautiful
practice casts, and I was sure the photos were going to be nice.
All of a sudden, the poler pointed to the right, and the
angler started to cast again. But this time, there was no loop. His
backcasts were hitting the water, and finally, his leader caught and
wrapped around the rod, ending any possibility of a shot. Even at a
distance, the angler looked four inches shorter in his humiliation.
I turned around to my friend, who was smiling broadly. "A
permit," he said. "They saw a permit." And sure enough, a few seconds
later, the angler started to practice his cast, which was once again
A little late, but lovely.
I cast my first fly to a permit in the mid-to-late 50s,
and today, with quite a few permit to my name, they still make me
nervous when I am getting ready to cast. There is something about permit
fishing that just makes an angler uneasy. Maybe it's the fact that you
could face a fish well over 40 pounds, and that same large fish can
often be hard to see in the flats. Or perhaps it's the fact that they
can be incredibly spooky even on a windy day; forget a calm day. Even
after a great presentation, they might come to the fly as it drops,
carefully inspect your offering long after it has reached the bottom,
and then reject it and go about their business of looking for real food.
It can leave you with the shakes.
As hard as it can be to find permit, and as tough as they
can be during a fight, I find the presentation and the retrieve the
most critical. The toughest thing about landing a big permit is hooking a
Given a good breeze — which is ideal for permit because
it helps conceal your profile — you are going to have to talk yourself
into being fairly aggressive in your presentation. You must cast close
enough that the permit sees or hears your fly when it plops and, more
important, sees it sink to the bottom. Remember that the only defense a
crustacean has when confronting such a swift predator is to dive to the
bottom and dig in. To a permit, this looks
like a crab or a shrimp (depending on your fly pattern)
trying to skip out on dinner.
So don't lead him by too much, just a couple of body
lengths or so is enough. And while you will occasionally spook a few
fish by being aggressive and getting too close, you will also hook more
fish than by being too cautious. There is nothing worse than an angler
casting all day to a few permit that never knew he was there. Spook them
or hook them.
If the cast did not land exactly where you want it to,
yet is still too close to pick up and cast again, then retrieve it
slowly. A long pull might put it were you want it. Or you can just
retrieve until you see the fish react, and then let it drop.
One exception occurs when you are chasing a permit or a
school of permit feeding into a strong current, which will be waiting
for crustaceans to drift their way. Here it may be wise to lead the fish
a little more than usual and let the fly drift into them.
Once you have made a good cast, you must interact with
the fish. That is, watch his reaction to the fly from the moment it
plops on the water to the take. Try to read the fish's body language
during all of this, because every fish reacts differently, although this
is certainly an area where experience is the ultimate teacher.
If he sees the fly dropping and comes over for a look, lay it on
the bottom as he investigates. If you feel you must move it, or you
can't stand it any longer, move the fly very slowly and such that it is
off the bottom. Dragging a fly across the sand will spook them.
Other anglers may fish the crab a little faster by swimming it with a long, slow pull.
Then, if this does not work, they will go back to the
drop-and-wait. But whatever you try, do not use sharp or abrupt strips.
This appears very unnatural to a permit and more often than not will
As you make your retrieve — even while you are letting
the crab fly sit on the bottom — make sure that you have no slack in the
line. This way, the moment the permit picks it up, you will feel the
take and are ready to strip-strike. If you don't maintain line contact, a
permit will pick up the fly for a few seconds and then spit it out
without you knowing. Happens all the time, to the frustration of the
guide who is begging for the angler to strike.
On that point, any permit angler should have a constant
line of communication with the guide or poling partner. Remember that he
or she is much higher than you on that poling platform and, if it is a
guide, has seen many more permit than you.
One exception to the slow retrieve is a school of small
permit in the flats, and by small I mean fish under 10 pounds or so.
These younger fish act more like jacks than mature permit, so it is
almost always better to use a faster retrieve and even a fishier fly,
such as a Clouser.
Cast in front of the moving school (like teenagers, small
permit always seem to be moving) and let the fish approach the fly.
Then, without any sharp strips that may scare them, strip, stop, and
strip. If you get no hits, mix it up with a few strips, a long strip,
and so on. By then, the spirit of competition among small permit will
usually trigger a strike. And remember to strip-strike before you lift
the rod, and to look at your line and not at the fish while clearing
your fly line.
In the way of leaders, I like the longest I can handle
in the prevailing wind condition. And half of that is butt section to
help turn over the typically heavily weighted permit flies.
Most of my permit leaders range from about 9 feet for
very windy days to almost 14 feet for fairly calm days. If it's super
calm, I do some other type of fishing (or head back to shore for a big
The single best tippet size for me is around 12-pound
test. I say "around" because some manufacturers' tippets are heavier
than others for the same test strength. Too heavy a tippet, and the crab
will not dive as fast and does not act as natural. But I do see anglers
using 16-pound tippet, and that's okay if the diameter is not too big.
Others even go to 20-pound tippet, but not me.
Everyone has their own killer permit fly, but in most
areas, the basic crab designs seem to do the best, followed by some
shrimp patterns. Rather than show you any of the crab flies I use, I
think it is more important to point out that you should have your crab
flies in two weight sizes. One should be lightly weighted with brass
eyes or bead-chain eyes, and you should have another group tied with
lead eyes. So, for example, you would have a light-colored Merkin in a
light weight and heavy; a dark color in a light weight and heavy, and so
on. This way, if the tide is high when you get to the flats, you go
heavy. If the tide is low and the fish are tailing in fairly shallow
water, then you pull out the lighter flies so you can land softly and
still get to the bottom.
Permit require one of the warmwater fly lines
specifically designed to put up with very hot weather and high humidity.
Most of these lines have a hard core (either braided
monofilament or a single mono core) to keep the fly line fairly stiff in
permit weather. Unlike for bonefish, it doesn't get too hot for Mr.
Permit. So in that high heat, ordinary fly line will hang on the guides
like wet linguini and refuse to shoot. They also tangle often, making
any line manipulation a nightmare.
A 9- or a 10-weight is the best line for delicately
presenting heavy crab and shrimp flies in shallow water. Any heavier and
you are pushing it; besides, what fun would it be to fight a permit
with a tarpon rod?
Use a 9-foot saltwater taper rod to match your fly line.
Unfortunately, some manufacturers have rods that are, at least in my
opinion, too stiff for the recommended fly line. So you may have to use
one line size larger on some rods. But try to stay with the 9- and
10-weights, if you can.
Despite the fact that permit grow several times larger
than bonefish, they tend not to run as far as fast. Even if you hook a
40-pound permit, you should be fine with a fly reel that holds around
200 yards of 20-pound backing. And of course, a smooth drag is a great
help and a pleasure to use. However, I have landed lots of permit while
using reels with light drags or clicker drags, just for fun.
Either way, the fight may be long not so much for the
blistering runs but for the permit's stubborn, jacklike fight. Before
you can experience that, however, you have to learn the necessary
patience to entice them to eat, and that can come only from fishing for
them as much as possible.
Specifications• Line Sizes: 6 to 16 weight• Rod Lengths: 8' to 9.5' • Sections: all 4 piece models • Handles: Portuguese cork - Full-wells saltwater grip• Reel Seats: Black anodized aluminum uplock w/ cork fighting butt • Actions: Fast
Saltwater fly rods have a difficult set of criteria to live up to. They need to be powerful, and have a relatively fast action to throw tighter loops when distance is required, and to battle wind with large flies. Yet, just as often, these rods are called upon to load quickly for very short casts, with just one backcast, when jumping fish from the deck of a boat, or in poor visibility conditions. Hmmmm... that sounds like a difficult design parameter to me. In a similar vein, we’re battling some pretty big, muscular fish here, sometimes longer than we would want to, so the fly rod has to be built strong enough to take that punishment, plus the added abuse of getting knocked around in a boat. But on the other hand, we may have to cast this beast of a rod for hours at a time, so if it’s overly heavy, or unresponsive, it could wipe us out of the game when if we’re unable to raise our arms any more. Such are the dilemmas of the Saltwater fly angler. Awhile back, the Sage Rod Company started experimenting with a graphite fly rod construction process which they thought would lead them to the next level in overall fly rod performance. In a nutshell, they were right on. After three years of extensive testing, Sage’s new Generation 5 Graphite Technology process was unveiled for the 2004 season in the form of an impressive new series of high performance saltwater fly fishing rods, the Xi2. This construction process has proven so successful, Sage has incorporated the same G5 Technology into the moderate action/light line ZXL Series, the all-around fast action Z-Axis Series, and most recently, for 2008, the featherweight TXL ultra-light series.
All of these new Sage rod Series are impressive performers in their own right, but let’s get back to the Sage Xi2s. The Xi2 rod has a fast action, yet is extremely smooth, and can readily generate high line speeds for longer saltwater casts, even though it has a finer tip and weighs about a half an ounce less than its popular predecessor, the Sage RPLXi. When I recently used the Xi2 12 weight on a Tarpon trip to the Keys, we ran into a lot of overcast conditions. Sometimes we didn’t see these monsters until they were just about on top of us. Then the guide was yelling, “Get it out there, NOW!” The Xi2 responded fairly quickly and accurately in these short line situations. Sage says that their Modulus Positioning System (MPS) in the Xi2 allows a precise lay-up of longitudinal fibers not only to create the smoothest action possible, but also “to provide a startling level of "line feel" throughout the casting stroke. This enhanced ability to feel the rod load allows you to apply power more efficiently.” I’d agree with that, considering that the Xi2 is a fast action rod. “Fast” in saltwater lexicon usually means “really stiff”. The Xi2 seemed to give me more feedback than the heavier saltwater sticks I’d used in the past. Long casts or short casts, the Xi2 seemed to make my casting easier. I should note that my casting style is suited, and my preferences are biased, toward faster action rods. But G5 Technology looks to make even fast rods more “castable” for everyone, so I would even recommend these rods to beginning casters, some of who may benefit by starting out with a fly line one size heavier than the rod weight.
There are thirteen of these dark blue-colored, four-piece bad boys, and they cover all the line weights, ranging from a 9’ six weight for spooky bones, specks, and reds, all the way up to an 8 foot long, sixteen (yes, 16) weight rod for landing god-knows-what kinda huge fish. The Sage Xi2 9 foot 8 weight, 10 weight, and 12 weight rods remain the salt water workhorses for flats, reefs and offshore and are the most popular sizes for all-around saltwater fly fishing.
Sage replaced a very successful saltwater rod series, the RPLXi with the Xi2. The Xi2 weighs significantly less, easily generates more power, but most importantly, has a more responsive, lively feel when compared to previous saltwater rods. The significance lies in the differing technologies used in building the rod blanks themselves. Instead of a typical fiberglass “scrim” or mesh that is rolled around the steel mandrel and binds the longitudinal graphite fibers together, the Z-Axis utilizes what Sage calls their Generation 5 technology. In this process, the scrim is replaced by a lighter layer of graphite cloth that is rolled at a 90º angle to the separate layer of longitudinal graphite rolled over it. The result is a rod with greater “hoop” strength with less weight. When a fly fishing rod bends, its circular cross section becomes an oval, with the greatest stress occurring in the compression element at the inside of the bend. This phenomenon is typically what causes graphite rods to shatter when they’re overstressed (aside from car doors, dog teeth, and nicks from weighted flies). These graphite “hoops” offer far greater stability than their heavier fiberglass counterparts used in past generations of graphite fly rods. In addition, when the G5 layers are compressed with tape and baked in an oven, as all synthetic rods are, the epoxy resin fuses the layers together more effectively than it would with scrim, and uses less resin in the process. G5 tech has been proven with the Xi2 Salt Water rods, and has lead to the production of new, higher performance freshwater Sage fly rods, as well. Not only that, but in the four plus years since their introduction, the Sage Xi2s have proven their extreme ruggedness in tough saltwater situations. So; lighter, stronger, faster, more versatile, and more durable, to boot? If you took a poll of veteran Saltwater fly anglers, it would be no surprise that they would rate the Sage Xi2 as the top saltwater rods available today.
The sanded surface blank of the Xi2 is painted a blue color with blue thread wraps over English Hopkins and Holloway heavy-duty oversized snake guides, oversized round tip top, and two stripping guides, with three stripping guides on 11 weight rods, and heavier. The grips are turned smoothly from the finest individual Portuguese cork rings and are complimented with a black, salt-safe, heavy duty anodized aluminum uplocking reel seat with a cork fighting butt. Due to several layers of inspection during the manufacturing process, the fit and finish of the Xi2 is nearly flawless and what one would, and should, expect on a top of the line rod. The rod comes in a cloth sock with fold over tie down and a substantial, blue colored aluminum tube with a solid screw cap. • Sage G5 technology graphite construction • Very light in hand (for salt water fly rods) • Fast and crisp, yet smooth, rod tapers for high line speed, accuracy, and comfortable casting, near or far • Oversized, low profile English Hopkins and Holloway guides and round tip top • Hand-turned Full Wells cork grip • Black uplocking salt-safe big game reel seat with cork fighting butt • Cloth sack and aluminum rod case • Limited lifetime warranty
Sage was founded in 1979 by Don Green, an experienced rod blank builder and one of the architects of the modern fishing rod, as owner of the Grizzly Fiberglass Company, which later partnered with Fenwick. It was originally called Winslow Manufacturing (after the city of Winslow on Bainbridge Island, Washington) but within a year had changed its name to Sage. Emphasizing high quality fly rods sold only through specialty stores, Sage rode the crest of the fly-fishing boom in the post “A River Runs Through It” years. Today, although there is no industry repository for exact numbers, Sage is probably the world’s largest producer of premium fly rods and employs over 100 workers in their manufacturing facility. So, has being the 800-pound gorilla affected the quality of their product as it has with so many other companies in the outdoor industry? Although challenged by industry wide flat sales, the growth of the Internet, and increasingly higher quality Asian imports, my impression is no, for several reasons. Sage has continued to retain talented people and spend money on research and development. The proximity of Bainbridge to the Boeing Aircraft manufacturing plants near Seattle and Toray Composites in Tacoma provides access to a wealth of knowledge from the aerospace industry, the primary end users of graphite fiber. More importantly, aside from a few casting and spinning rod models over the years, Sage has pretty much stuck to their original intention, building very good fly rods. The Xi2 has a limited lifetime warranty for the original owner. If you damage or break your rod, you are responsible for the shipping charges and insurance to send ALL of the pieces to Sage in the original tube, or a PVC tube, plus a $50 handling fee, to cover return shipping and insurance within the U. S. or Canada. International owners are charged the actual shipping and insurance fees. Not a bad deal for an expensive, relatively fragile tool. The other five or six top US makers offer similar rod warranties, but not all provide the same level of service. I’ve seen some customers wait 3 or 4 months, or longer, to get their rods back. Sort of puts the damper on the fishing season. Sage’s lead time for repairs is usually about 2 to 3 weeks during their busy summer, and shortens to about 1 ½ to 2 weeks in the winter.
The Sage Xi2, from many standpoints, deserves its reputation as the best all around salt water rod series, and would be my first choice in all line weights that I would most often use in saltwater. If I could suggest one ‘dream’ change, however, it would be for Sage to adopt some new, innovative technology that’s recently become available; Recoil nickel/titanium guides and stripping guides. These amazing, lightweight guides are nearly crush-proof, usually snapping back to their original shape after being deformed. Recoils, as I’ve heard from some saltwater pros, have superior corrosion resistance over traditional plated steel wire guides, particularly when exposed to a constant marine environment. I don’t live on the ocean and I’m an occasional salt water fly angler, so I clean and rinse my gear (as I’ve been told to do over the years), after every salt exposure, and I clean it again, more thoroughly, when I get home from a trip. So, for me, as well as most anglers, both types of guides will work fine and most likely will give me long years of service. Sage competitor, G. Loomis has had good success with the Recoil guides on their GLX CrossCurrent saltwater fly rods. The CrossCurrents also cast very, very well and I would rate them a close second to the Xi2 and, perhaps, a first choice for someone who keeps their rods onboard most of the time.
Generation 5 Technology all-graphite layup from Sage builds noticeably lighter, stronger and faster line speed saltwater fly rods that can still load readily over a wide range of casting distances for ultimate versatility. Thirteen rod models from 6 to 16 weights to cover everything from small reds to giant billfish. Heavy-duty reel seats. Limited lifetime warranty.
$670 to $745 price tag is a little steep for some, but in line with other top saltwater fly rod makers. Traditional chromed steel guides, while sturdy, sometimes do not hold up as well to constant, or unmaintained salt water corrosion as the newer nickel/titanium Recoil guides.
A combination of recent technological advances and superb tapers, the Sage Xi2 has established a higher casting and fish fighting standard in saltwater fly fishing rods. Fast, smooth, ‘lively’ and powerful with proven strength and durability from the world’s most successful premier fly rod manufacturer.
Check out the best fly rod models.
by Dr. Aaron Adams
photos by Aaron Adams
AS THE TIDE TURNED and began to flood, I poled the boat
across a shallow grass flat, just inside the sandbar that separated the
flat from the Intracoastal Waterway. Many of the large boats that
blasted past reminded me of Rodney Dangerfield’s short, destructive,
ill-fated yacht voyage in the movie Caddyshack. So when I
muttered ‘what a couple of Rodneys’ when two boats passing in opposite
directions neglected to slow down, and slammed loudly into each other’s
massive wakes, my fishing buddy Doug Hedges knew exactly what I was
talking about. It was amazing — we were close enough to the chaos of the
ICW that we could read the registration numbers on the sides of passing
boat hulls, and we were stalking tailing redfish. Except for us, these
redfish were unmolested.
You have to give Doug credit, he seems ready to try
something new at least once. And on the bow, he stood ready to cast to
the next tailer that came into range — with, of all things, a gurgler
tied to his tippet. Some folks know this is a good technique, but when I
suggest they try a surface fly for tough tailing redfish, most anglers
show a look of disbelief, even suspicion. But not Doug, he was all for a
A topwater fly is farthest from many angler’s minds when
they are casting to tailing redfish. The fish are, after all, digging
their noses in the bottom for shrimp, crabs, worms, or small
bottom-dwelling fish like gobies and blennies. Why on earth would an
angler in their right mind choose a surface pattern? After all, redfish
don’t eat with their tails. A topwater fly can be a good choice for
First, a redfish intent on digging out prey buried in the
bottom is often so focused that it doesn’t see it’s surroundings. This
is one reason it is possible to pole a boat right up to a tailing
redfish without being noticed until the boat almost overtakes the
feeding fish. On numerous occasions I’ve been able to wade close enough
to a tailing redfish to touch it with my rod tip. Actively tailing
redfish can also stir up enough bottom that visibility in their
immediate surroundings drops to zero, obscuring any fly in the murk. In
either case, even the most perfectly placed fly might not be noticed.
Second, even tailing redfish pick their heads up out of
the bottom every once in a while as they move on in search of more prey.
There is a good chance that a redfish moving in search of more food
will see the motion at the surface and investigate. And it’s not
uncommon for a bottom grubbing redfish to scare up small prey that make a
break for it. So that same redfish that was so engrossed in digging for
a mud crab that it never saw the perfectly presented fly might see the
surface commotion of a gurgler, and mistake the fly for an escaping
prey. Many times I’ve watched small shrimp and fish squirt from the
water as they try to avoid a feeding redfish. And I’ve seen redfish that
were lackadaisically tailing suddenly erupt at the surface to grab
these would-be escapees.
Third, in many of the flats where anglers fish for
tailing redfish, the seagrass is thick and tall. The densely packed
seagrass blades can act as a barrier, preventing a tailing fish from
seeing a fly only inches away. And at a very low tide, the upper
portions of the grass blades lay across the surface, and the tips reach
to the surface at a medium tide, making it tough to get a sinking fly to
the bottom. A weedless gurgler helps get around both of these
challenges and puts the fly in an area where it can be seen by a
A gurgler is my surface fly of choice because it is
light, so is easy to cast long distances and lands on the water lightly.
Both characteristics are necessary when fishing to tailing redfish on
shallow flats. The gurgler is also versatile in how it can be fished —
loudly, so it makes a lot of commotion, or softly, so it barely ripples
the surface. So it’s easy to imitate different prey — soft and slow for
shrimp and loud and fast for the finger mullet that can be abundant in
fall — and the changing moods of redfish.
I first started using gurglers for tailing redfish, in
part, out of frustration. My favorite flats for tailing redfish are
covered with lush turtle grass and shoal grass. It can be wearing to
make good cast after good cast to a tailing fish and get no response
because it never saw the fly among the many grass blades. My strategy
when fishing for tailing reds is pretty simple — get the fly into the
fish’s sight zone and make sure the fish sees it. I know the fish has
seen the fly when it changes it’s behavior — it either reacts
positively, by following or taking the fly, or negatively, by avoiding
the fly or suddenly swimming in the other direction. Often, redfish
feeding in thick seagrass don’t react at all, so likely never see the
An unweighted fly that sinks very slowly is a good choice
in these situations because the fly spends more time in mid-water,
where it is more visible, while a weighted fly that sinks straight to
the bottom is quickly lost. However, even an unweighted fly that hovers
mid-water can remain unseen by a redfish feeding in thick grass. If I
can get the gurgler in front of the redfish, it’s a good bet the fish
will see the fly.
Another good situation for using a gurgler is when there
are a lot of redfish around, but they aren’t staying put long enough to
stalk and cast to any particular fish. The first time I tried a gurgler
in frustration was on a day when the flat was full of tailing fish.
Well, fish were tailing everywhere but where I was. Fish weren’t feeding
very long in a spot, but instead would tail for a few seconds and then
move on. There was really no point in stalking, so I drifted across the
flat blind-casting a gurgler. This can be an especially successful
strategy in late summer and fall when juvenile mullet (aka finger mullet) are often common on the flats, and a favorite food of the larger redfish that invade the flats in fall.
My favorite situation for using a gurgler is casting to
redfish that are pushing a bow-wake as they slowly cruise from one
eating spot to the next. I’ll often see these fish tail some distance
away, then right themselves and slowly head off in search of more prey.
Sometimes, the dorsal and upper tail fins of these fish will be out of
the water. These fish move slowly and deliberately enough that I can
guess their course and put myself in the best location to make a good
cast. I like to lead these fish by a healthy enough distance that they
can’t see the fly or fly line in the air, and let the fly sit until they
are within a few feet before beginning my retrieve.
When casting a gurgler to a tailing or cruising redfish, I
use a leader of 10 - 12 feet or more, with 12 lb. fluorocarbon tippet.
For tailers I use a long leader because I try to cast past the fish, to
the side the head is pointing. I then bring the fly back over the fish.
If the fish continues to tail, I’ll make the fly pop to get the fish’s
attention. If the fish is not tailing, I continue retrieving the fly in
short strips. Using this strategy, a shorter leader would cause the fly
line to land over the fish, likely spooking the fish and ruining my
chances for a hookup.
For blind-casting, a longer leader means I have less
chance of accidentally lining a fish with the fly line during a cast.
The longer leader also provides better separation between the fly line
and fly, so there is less chance a redfish coming to check out the fly’s
commotion will intersect the fly line.
Cruisers are swimming near the surface, with their cone
of vision pointing forward and upward. A longer leader helps me keep the
fly line out of this cone of vision during the cast. I use 12 lb rather
than 20 lb leader because heavier leader tends to pull the gurgler
down. And I find that fluorocarbon tippets make a difference because the
waters I fish tend to be clear.
Long casts are usually best, because even redfish that
attack the gurgler aggressively tend to miss the fly a few times before
they get it in their mouth. With their mouth on the underside of their
snout, redfish have to either raise their head out of the water so they
come down on the fly, or turn sideways to get a better angle on the fly
from below. When a redfish brings its head out of the water to get over
the fly, its eyes come above the water surface, so they can spot an
angler that is close by. And less aggressive redfish will often follow a
gurgler for an excruciatingly long distance, so a long cast gives the
fish more time to decide to take the fly.
When a redfish strikes a gurgler, it is usually an
exciting show — often an explosion on the fly. The temptation is to rear
back and set the hook. In most circumstances, this will result in a
fish circling in confusion as it searches for the fly that you just
launched past your ear. Remember, they’ll often miss the fly the first
time. It takes some control, but keep stripping the fly in the same
manner that induced the redfish into attacking it, and strip strike when
you feel tension on the line. Don’t lift the rod until you’re sure the
fish is hooked. Easier said than done.
Back to the fishing.
Getting in range of a tailing redfish was the biggest
challenge. For a while, it seemed that every fish we saw would tail
aggressively until we were just into casting range, and then suddenly
disappear, only to reappear a few minutes later just a little farther
away: a frustrating pattern that redfish seem to follow frequently.
Doug got decent casts to a couple fish, one of which
ignored the fly as it moved off to another spot, and a second that
looked at the fly and suddenly bolted when Doug stripped the fly ever so
slightly. The eruption caused by the second fish was entertainment in
Doug made a couple casts that had been ignored by a third
tailer, as the fish alternately tailed and moved, tailed and moved.
When the fish had not shown itself for a minute or so, I began to scan
the flat for more action. Then Doug let out a "WHOOP." I turned
to see his rod doubled over and fly line jumping off the deck and
through the guides in pursuit of a surprised redfish. A few minutes
later, we had the fish boatside, and Doug had his first redfish on a
gurgler. We were able to get one more fish before the tailing action
died down, the sun dipped low, and we made the run back to the boat
Would a standard fly pattern for tailing redfish have
worked? Perhaps, but it wouldn’t have been as exciting or visual a take.
And we didn’t have to worry about making the perfect cast and keeping
the fly snag-free.
The gurgler is an easy fly to tie, and is surprisingly durable for being made mostly of soft foam.
I use pliable closed cell foam in either tan or white.
Tan is good for imitating shrimp and some of the small fish that live on
the flats. White is good for imitating finger mullet and is easier to
see at dusk, one of my favorite times for fishing for tailing redfish. I
use a long shank hook — either for tying a longer, shrimp-like body, or
to tie a keel-hook style weedless version. For the standard,
long-bodied pattern, I tie in a mono weedguard just behind the hook eye.
For the keel-hook style fly, I use pliers to bend the hook backwards,
the bend at approximately 2/3 the length of the shank behind the hook
eye. The foam body is then tied on the same side of the hook as the hook
bend. This fly will ride with the hook point up, making it weedless. I
originally began tying the keel-style fly because so many redfish were
striking the fly without getting hooked. The theory is that since
redfish so often come down on the fly from above, an upward pointing
hook should have a better hookup ratio. The jury is still out on this,
but the hookup rate is certainly no less than the standard pattern. This
clearly means that more research is needed.
Hook: Mustad 34011, size 4
Tail: bucktail, color to match foam body
Body: closed cell foam, double the
length of the hook shank – half tied to the shank, half folded over
(from hook bend to eye) as the back
Legs: hackle colored to match the foam body, attached at the rear of the hook bend and palmered to the hook eye
Thread: Danville flat waxed nylon, color to match the foam body
Weedguard: 40 lb mono