Through a hands-on demonstration of fly rod mechanics, fly line construction and the tapering of the leader you will understand the energy transference of your equipment and how it leads to a perfect fly cast. You’ll also learn how proper stance, grip and arm position can increase your casting efficiency and relieve potential fatigue.
As the lesson progresses, we’ll teach you to adjust the shape of your casting loops, as well as their angle and direction, to accommodate varying conditions you may encounter stream side. You’ll practice adding and stripping line to increase your casting distance and control slack, and how to "gently alight" your fly on the water.
Step One Curriculum
• Equipment lexicon and assembly
• The theory of tapered equipment
• Body position, stance, and grip
• "The power of the stop"
• Forming Loops, open and tight
• Aiming loops, changing direction and plane
• Adding line to the system
• Stop and Drop
Practice the skills from Step 1 and you will be ready for Step 2 Line Control
Price is $100 for one person or $80 per person (for a group up to four). Dates are arranged according to your schedule. Time is arranged according to your schedule. Duration is approximately 1 hour 15 minutes. Location is generally held at the Casting Ponds in Golden Gate Park in San Francisco.
• Single Haul
• Double Haul
• Casting in the wind
• Casting for distance
• Specialty casts - reach cast, curve cast, tuck cast etc.
• How to get a good drift
• How to read a trout stream or a bonefish flat
• Accuracy practice
• Shooting line
• Stop, Shoot and Drop
• The Roll Cast
• The Advanced Roll Cast or Single Spey
• Shooting line in a Single Spey
• Knot tying and various rigging methods
• Professional’s Vest
"Hooking a trout has much to do with how perfectly you are able to present your dries."
Leland New Zealand Dry Fly Outfit:
California's Lower Truckee River flows from the famous Tahoe Lake. It winds it's way though beautiful alpine country, passes through the quaint mountain town of Truckee and then bends eastward. Unlike most Sierra Nevada streams, the Truckee River never meets the Pacific Ocean. Instead, it heads inland, eventually feeding into Nevada's Pyramid Lake. It's a pretty western river and it's full of trophy trout...but they don't come easy.It was on this river, that I had the chance to test out Loop Tackle's Multi 696-4 fly rod. That might sound like a larger fly rod for your standard-sized trout stream, but I had a plan in mind. Knowing that really big brown trout hold in these waters and also knowing that there's a healthy population of crawfish in this watershed, I was going streamer fishing.I tied up some heavy-duty, rusty brown crawfish patterns with barbell eyes. I even added some rabbit strips to mimic the claws of the crawfish. This fly would be the only pattern I would fish this day. To efficiently deliver this heavier fly, I need a fly line with more mass. I chose the new Airflo Mend in a six weight. You might think I would fish a sinking tip line, but most of the clear water runs on the Truckee are not that deep and if a big brown trout wanted my fly...he'd happily move toward it.To keep things simple, I used the Loop Multi fly reel (6-9) to compliment this outfit. Might sound like a pretty big reel to put on a six weight, but I chose it for two reasons: The reel's extra weight would counter-balance the extra length of this rod, providing improved balance for a long day of casting. Also, this larger reel would give me extra line capacity, should I need it on a big brown trout.Here's an important factoid related to crawfish. They have an exoskeleton (a hard outer shell). As these critters grown, they shed or molt their entire exoskeleton and grow into their new one. Calcium is the key element here, as it is used to harden the new exoskeleton. Not wanting to waist any calcium, prior to the molt, a crawfish removes as much calcium from the old shell and stores it in its gastrolith (stomach stone). It then blasts this calcium back into the new shell to create a hard exoskeleton.And the point of all this is...? When a big brown trout eats a crawfish, the trout's stomach dissolves the crawfish, except for the gastrolith. This white, pill-like stone (it looks like a Tums antacid) is passed through digestive track of the fish and drops to the bottom of the stream. A big brown trout will eat many crawfish and the expelled gastroliths will collect in the tail out of brown trout's run. Just think bones near a dragon's lair.With the Loop Multi 696-4 fly rod rigged and ready, a walked the banks of the Truckee in search of a promising run. Prior to fishing, I inspected the tail of the run, looking for expelled gastroliths. Within a short hunt, I found a run with many (as in a lot) gastroliths in the tail out. The Loop Multi six weight had plenty of casting power to propel my Airflo six weight Mend fly line with ease. It's a nine foot six inch rod that provided easy mends and superior line control.I could easily dead drift, jig and swing my crawfish pattern. I had total control over my many casts and drifts. My guess is that most people would have moved on to another run after a dozen or so casts, but not me. The confidence provided me by visually inspecting the collection of gastroliths kept me on the hunt. On one drift, my line literally stop. There was slight pressure and I set the hook. My Loop Multi rod bowed over and the Loop Multi fly reel's drag smoothly paid out line.It was a big, really big brown trout on my line. I had twelve pound tippet, so I felt pretty confident putting hard pressure on the fish to keep him from structure. Not kidding, these big brown trout act more like Ling Cod, as they will dig (head first) into any crevice afforded them by the stream. I had the chance to land two more large trout during my day. Casting the Loop Multi 696-4 was fun and easy. It had plenty of power and balanced nicely with the Loop Multi 6-9 fly reel. This is one great rod/outfit for any angler wanting to pursue larger trout with confidence.
Let's first start with the question, "When is it time to clean my fly line?" Well, I clean mine any time my floating line starts sinking. If you want to be proactive, every 4-5 uses is a good rule of thumb. This will dramatically extend the life of your line if done properly.
Other signs your fly line needs cleaning
For this Project you will need:
Step One: Soak the Fly Line:I use a double basin sink (2 buckets or tubs also work). Fill one with 2-3 inches of warm soapy water (use a mild dish detergent) and the other with 2-3 inches of warm water. Strip the fly line off your reel into the soapy water using long pulls and deliberate placement of the line. Let soak for 25-30 minutes. You only need to clean the portion of line that you use...but I figure, why not the whole thing?
Step Two: Scrub and Rinse the Line: The next step is to run the fly line through a wash cloth, beginning with the line that is nearest your reel. Pinch the fly line with the wash cloth firmly in between your thumb and index finger. Apply good pressure and pull the line into the bucket of warm water. Empty the soapy water and dry that basin. Beginning with the front of your fly line (nearest the leader), dry the line with the washcloth while pulling it into the freshly dried basin.
Step Three: Remove the Tough Grit Empty the freshwater basin and dry it out. Begin with the line closest to your reel and pull it through the doubled over washcloth, applying pressure with your thumb and index finger. Repeat pulling the line in between the basins until no more dirt rubs off onto the washcloth .
Step Four: Condition Your Fly Line Apply a dime-size dab of whizzlube. Double over the washcloth again and pull the line through, applying less pressure than before. Your goal is to coat the fly line in the conditioner. Let the fly line dry for 30-40 minutes (we recommend at least five minutes and up to 24 hours).